All hands share the same design as those on the ‘normal’ Calibre de Cartier, being the sword-shaped hands in black oxidized steel with a luminescent coating. The date aperture, which shows three consecutive dates, has moved from the 3 o’clock to the 6 o’clock position and there are two registers, one for the running seconds hand and a 30-minute counter. The dial shows the Roman numerals on the top half and stick hour markers, treated with luminescent material, on the lower half. A similar case, measuring 42 mm in diameter with a water resistance of 100 meters. The bottom plate, masked by the movement’s components, is circular-grained. The movement’s bridge, balance cock and rotor are finish with a fine Côtes de Genève striping, which is all visible through a sapphire crystal case back.Īnd before I forget it, there’s also the dial side and case, which both strongly remind of the Calibre de Cartier. The rotor winds, like on caliber 1904-PS, bi-directional. The chronograph function is activated by a column wheel that is visible through an round aperture in the large bridge, which almost fully covers the entire movement. The fine-adjustment system features the signature Cartier “C”. Other similarities between caliber 1904-PS and the new chronograph caliber 1904-CH, are the same beat rate (28,800 vph), diameter (11,5 ligne) and a central rotor with ceramic ball bearings that which ensure excellent shock resistance and durability. Opting for two main springs ensures a more stable chronometric rate. It shares much of the same principles, like two main spring barrels, which are good for ‘just’ 48 hours of power reserve. The press release doesn’t mention anything about it, however it looks like the new movement, caliber 1904-CH, has been designed on the base caliber 1904-PS. These mono pushers use a manual wind movement developed by THA, a company founded by no-one less then Denis Flageolet (De Bethune), Vianney Halter and Francois-Paul Journe! The previous Cartier chronograph watches, were either based on ETA movement like in the Santos 100 Chronograph or the mono pusher chronographs from Collection Privee Cartier Paris. I think it’s justified to call this movement, Cartier’s first ‘normal’ in-house chronograph movement, putting aside the exotics from their Fine Watchmaking collection.
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